Greek wine used to be the stuff of jokes. Whenever the subject cropped up – not often, admittedly – people would screw their eyes shut and make nose-blowing sounds. According to the general consensus, the best you could say for Greek wine was that it was a fitting accompaniment to Greek food.

The chief cause of this derision was Retsina. If you haven’t come across it, this is white wine flavoured with pine resin. It smells and tastes like turps, and while it does have its enthusiasts, so do flagellation, coprophagy and rap music.

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