The Merry Drinker

The most surprising thing about this Chianti is how much they make of it: around half a million bottles each year, shipped to more than 80 countries. You would not expect such a wine to be better than competent, perhaps like one of those high-volume Californian reds: clean-tasting, unobjectionable and anonymous. But no description could be less true of this Chianti, which is an elegant, upmarket wine, beautifully perfumed and brimming with character. It has set the standard for all Chianti for most of the last 81 years.

“Riserva Ducale” means “Reserve of the Duke”, in honour of the the Duke of Aosta, who was understandably fond of the stuff. The first such Riserva was made in 1927, and was joined twenty years label by this “Riserva Ducale Oro” or “Gold label”. Both are cuvées, blended from grapes from the firm’s best vineyards, with the “Oro” only made in the better years.

That said, the critics have been somewhat sniffy about the 2003 Oro. In most years, Italy’s Gambero Rosso judges award it three glasses out of three, but the 2003 received only two glasses, on the grounds that “it suffers a little from a less than perfect vintage”. To be sure, 2003 was exceptionally hot, and this can be noticed in most of that year’s Chiantis, which are somewhat ponderous.

Nonetheless, I was struck by just how good this wine still is. My wife and I drank it while disposing of two particularly succulent ribeye steaks. The pairing was impeccable. I tried to think of other reds that go as well with grilled beef, and the only ones I could name were Bordeaux costing at least twice as much as this Chianti.

The Oro cost me $40, but I have since learned that I could have paid as little as $30 had I ordered it through the internet. In the UK it retails for around £25, but there too there are doubtless better deals to be found. I urge you to look for them.