Pinot Noir Reserve 2005, Argyle
7th September 2008
The world’s Pinot Noir makers divide into two schools. There are those who say “We are striving for greatness. The greatest Pinot Noirs are made in Burgundy. Therefore our Pinot Noir will be as Burgundian as we can make it.” Others say “We too are striving for greatness, but greatness can take many forms. It is impossible to fake a Burgundy, so we are not going to try. Our Pinot Noir will take on whatever character our location and technique give it. If the results are not Burgundian, so what? All that matters is that the wine be outstanding.”
The first school contains some Oregon houses, one or two in California, and many more in New Zealand. The second covers just about everyone else, including the Argyle winery of Dundee, Oregon.
This winery was co-founded by Brian Croser, one of the most prominent Australian winemakers, and a strong advocate of the “terroir” philosophy, the belief that a wine should reflect the land and culture from which it comes. Argyle used to be best known for its sparkling wines, which can be very fine indeed, but in recent years the reputation of its Pinot Noir has also risen steadily. Having tried this 2005 Reserve, I can see what the fuss is about.
Its nose is bright and somewhat sweet, with suggestions of new leather and cigar boxes. Its flavour is a beguiling mix of caramel and licorice. It is completely without the “gamey” or “pubic” quality traditionally associated with Pinot Noir. Indeed if you drink this expecting any Burgundian traits you will be disappointed. My advice is to approach this wine with a completely open mind, forgetting the words “Pinot” and “Noir” and all they connote. Then you will be able to enjoy the wine for what it is: something delicious and utterly distinctive. $33 in the US, £20 in the UK.
