Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2005, Fattoria di Lucignano
4th January 2008
The nice thing about Chianti is that there is one for every pocket and every palate. If you are rich and discerning, you will buy La Massa’s spectacular Giorgio Primo. If you are a penniless moron, you will buy one of those Cecchi flasks encased in raffia. And if like most of us you are something in between, you can still be confident that there is a Chianti just for you.
My favourite “everyday” Chianti is Marchese Antinori. In good years this is ripe and lush, in bad ones musty and meagre. The good years outnumber the bad. But this Chianti is no longer cheap, and even its best vintages are not outstanding value for money. Seekers of bargain Chianti must hunt elsewhere.
One place they might look is among the non-classico Chiantis. For those who are unclear about this, I should explain that there are different Chianti zones. Wines labelled Chianti Classico are from the central, traditional area between Florence and Siena. Wines from just outside this zone may simply call themselves Chianti. These appelations are no guarantee of quality: I have tasted Chianti Classico that could unblock drains, and plain Chianti that tasted decidedly upmarket.
Just to confuse matters, there are also official consortia of Chianti and Chianti Classico makers. The latter adorn their bottles with a black rooster logo. But membership of these consortia is not obligatory, and some of the best Chianti makers scorn them.
It so happens that the Fattoria di Lucignano belongs to the Chianti consortium of Colli Fiorentini, to the north-east of the Chianti Classico zone. Whether because of this or in spite of it, their Chianti is worth looking out for. It is coloured deep ruby with a violet rim; full, uncomplicated, somewhat tart, and with a long finish of dark cherries. It is extremely gluggable, either on its own or with any meat dish. (I tried it alongside sautéed rabbit, and was impressed.) Good value at around $14 in the US, £10 in the UK.
