Hess Appellation Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, California
5th November 2007
When talking about wine I often feel like the little boy who blurts out that the Emperor has no clothes.
Many houses offer us good budget label wines in the hope that these will tempt us to try their more serious offerings. Needless to say, the serious stuff costs twice, thrice, even four times as much as the cheapo. But the expectation is that on trying it we will nod solemnly, say “Mmm, one does see the difference,” and banish all memory of the budget wine.
Often this strategy works. But now and again I am left feeling that the budget wine is the better bet. The more expensive label may be technically superior – more complex, longer finish, and so on – but the Cinderella wine is simply more charming. After a couple of sips I find myself saying “That is nice. ” I look again at the label, to find out more about what I am drinking. And when the bottle is empty, I wish I had bought a second. By comparison the serious label seems dull. There is nothing wrong with it, but it is neither exciting nor memorable.
The choice is like being seated at dinner between someone beautiful and refined who has nothing to say, and someone plain and vulgar who is full of amusing conversation. I know whose company I prefer.
So it is with the wines of Hess, California. The owner, Donald Hess, is also a prominent art collector. His winery and his art collection are both to be found on Mt Veeder, west of Napa. I have tried his Hess Collection Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a single-vineyard wine costing around $30, and it is highly regarded. More distinguished writers than I call it outstanding. Excellent value for its price range, they say.
I have also tried Mr Hess’s Appellation Series Cabernet Sauvignon. (Confusingly, this was until recently called Hess Select, and earlier vintages will be found under that name.) It is a blended wine, costing only $13 in the US, £10 in the UK. The 2005 has a smoky, mossy nose, a fresh, berry taste, and a surprisingly long finish. My wife and I were charmed by it, and have since bought several more bottles. By contrast the Mount Veeder wine sent us to sleep.
Mr Hess will no doubt despise me for saying all this. He will dismiss me as a fool and philistine, and he will probably be right. But for sheer, unalloyed pleasure, I maintain his Appellation Series Cabernet is the wine to go for.
