The Merry Drinker

Ever tried Virginia wine? When it is good, it is very good indeed. And scarcely anyone has heard of it yet, which means there are some real bargains to be had.

In 2003 the state of Virginia grew 3,600 tons of grapes, producing 576,000 gallons of wine. By US standards that is not very much, and by no means of all of it has resulted in serious wine. Nevertheless, of the 80 wineries that have started up here over the past quarter-century, at least a dozen deserve close attention. And of these, the most impressive I have so far come across is Linden vineyards, an hour’s drive west of Washington, D.C.

Linden produced its first vintage in 1987. Its owner, Jim Law, is untroubled by the limitations imposed on him by Virginia’s climate. Lacking California’s continuous, intense sun, Virginia winemakers simply have to work harder, he says. “Our only way to compete with the rest of the world’s ‘grand vins’ is to have great viticulture.”

He draws his inspiration from the so-called vins de garage, high-quality wines made in undistinguished parts of Bordeaux. Their success owes nothing to local conditions or terroir and everything to rigorous winemaking technique.

Law’s Claret is a consummate example of a man practising what he preaches. He modestly calls this his ‘entry-level wine’. Many other houses’ showcase wines are not nearly so accomplished.

Linden produced just over a thousand cases of the 2003 Claret. It is made up of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc and 12% Petit Verdot. It spent 19 months in oak. The result is a full, bright-tasting wine, offering herbal aromas, berry flavours and a good finish.

In the US a bottle costs around $20. For a wine of similar calibre a Napa Valley house would charge at least $30.

Apparently Linden wines are not available in the UK. British readers should harass their wine merchants into doing something about that.