The Merry Drinker

Above all else I am a lover of the Pinot Noir grape. If I were compelled to drink only one wine for the rest of my life, that wine would undoubtedly be a Burgundy, the grape’s highest expression. (Ah, but which one?)

But I am not a millionaire. And each year, like all non-millionaire Pinot Noir lovers, I greet the rising price of Burgundy with sighs of despair. In my household Chambertin is a wine for birthdays and occasions, not for everyday drinking. On present trends it will soon be too costly even for that. Facing such a prospect the Merry Drinker struggles to remain merry.

The one consolation is that outside France good Pinot Noir is getting easier to find. Not that one is hunting for Burgundy doppelgangers. There is probably no such thing, though I have tasted wines from Oregon that come amazingly close. The point rather is to find winemakers who know how to get the most out of the Pinot Noir grape. There are ever more of these, thank goodness, and each performs his magic in his own distinct way.

That said, all successful Pinot Noirs have one trait in common, which is best described as gameyness. To me it is a clear suggestion of underdone pheasant, which doubtless explains why no wine accompanies the dish better. Others call this quality ‘fleshy’, ‘meaty’, even ‘pubic’. Whatever its name, you will find it in all fine Burgundy and Pinot Noirs from Italy to California.

It is certainly present in Cloudy Bay’s superb contribution, the result of years of experimentation with different grape varietals. Apparently there is much discussion among New Zealand winemakers about how Burgundian their Pinot Noirs are. This one reminds me less of Burgundy than Blauburgunder, the Pinot Noir of the South Tyrol. It is lightly-coloured and medium-bodied, though powerfully flavoured. Although strong (14%) it is not at all overbearing. I find it gamey rather than pubic, but you may disagree. Around $28 dollars in the US, £16 in the UK.